In this process, a rich color is achieved by introducing aniline dyes to the drum mix which is slowly turned until the color penetrate throughout the thickness of the hide. Most high quality leathers, including all Cortina Leathers, are aniline dyed in the drum. Steps in the retanning process include neutralization, aniline dying, retanning, softening, drying and buffing the leather.Īll the steps prior to drying occur in drums ranging in size from 10 to 300 hides. are all adjusted or imparted in the retanning process. Softness, fullness, density, elongation, the break of the leather, the leather color, etc. In the retanning process, the leather is given its required specific properties for each leather line or product, as defined by the finishing house or customer. The flesh split is typically used to make suede leather, lower-quality split leather or dog bones. The top-grain layer contains the fibrous collagen section and so is used for most high-quality upholstery leathers requiring strength, durability and softness. These steps determine the softness and stretchiness (elongation) of the leather, so are typically tightly controlled by the finisher or tannery.Īlso during preparation the hide is split to separate it into the top-grain layer and the flesh split. The collagen structure is also expanded and softened so that it better accepts the tanning chemicals. In the beamhouse, the hides are cleaned and unwanted materials such as hair and flesh are removed so that only the fibrous collagen structure that gives leather its strength and flexibility remain. The remaining steps of preparation occur in large wooden drums in the section of the tannery known as the beamhouse. The highest quality pure aniline leathers are made from fresh hides which are not cured-requiring quick transport from the raw hide supplier to the tannery.
The first step, curing, takes place prior to the tannery to ensure the hides do not spoil prior to arrival at the tannery. The preparation process prepares the hide for tanning and consists of curing, soaking, liming, fleshing, splitting, deliming, bating and pickling.
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